Collar.



.L M. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION HLED Aue. 1. 19H.

Patented Mar. 18,1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET l @513 @Hom/w95 PM' M )uw Kfm J. IVI. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED AuG.1. 1917-.

Patented Mal'. 18, 1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

lUNITED.srn'rus PATENT oFrroE.

II'OBLN'i M. VANHEUSEN, OFBSTN, MASSACHUSETTS.

f COLLAR.- l' V- i To all whom it may cof/wem Beit known that I, J oHNM. VAN HEUSEN,

. a citizen of the United States, residing at Y clare the followingtobe' exact description Aof the invention, such as No. 101 Robinwoodavenue, Boston, in the county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars; and I do herebydea full, clear, and

The common forms of soft folding. collars, made urp of individual layersof fabricy sewed together, usually have the defect that they present aflimsy appearanceg, and 'in order to improve their' appearance it hasbeen .common to embody stiifeners of various kinds between the layers offabric or to apply detachable stiifeners to the collars when worn.

The present invention has for one of its objects the avoidance of theflimsy appearance ofthe lcommon soft folding collars, and

the provision of a collar which will have an acceptable degree ofstiffness, without undue rigidity, so that it will simulate in appear-`ance the common laundried and starched g collars.

, to impart stiffness to the collar as ySo also,

In constructing the collars of the present invention, either the neckband portion of [the collar, or the 'folding or turn down portion of thecollar, or both the neck band and folding portions thereof, are made ofmultiply` fabric or of appropriate single ply fabric of sufficient b odyand of appropriate weave a whole. either the neck band portion, or thefolding or turn down portion, of the collar, or both the neck band andturn down portions, when both these portions are made df the specialfabric referred to, is provided with a thin integral 0fe extending fromthe main body of the fabric to which the other portion of the collar issecured. That is to say, either the neck band portion of the collar ismade of this special weave falbricv provided with an integral thin edgeat the upper portion thereof, to which the top of the Specification ofALetters Patent.

Patented Mall. 1s, 1919.

Application filed August 1, 1917, Serial No. 183,829.

outer folding or turn down portion is secured; ork the outer folding orturn down portion of the collar is provided with such a thin edge to andfolding portions, when made of the special weave fabric, are providedwith such thm integral edges lwhich are secured to l each other at ornear the fold line of the collar. i

The thin edge of .the special weave fabric may be, in certain cases, .astraight edge, but it is more advantageous to'use a fabric with acurvilinear set and with the edge also of curvilinear contour, so that.the curvilinear` edge of Ithe. fabric will conform to the fold line ofthe collar and .thereby contribute to the permanent curvilinear set ofthe collar.

The thin edge of the fabric is also advantageously a selvage edge,present a finished appearance without additional binding or withoutturning it in to 'for-nr |a hem; but the edge may nevertheless be madeunfinished or be out from a larger piece of fabric, and be finished inany appropriate manner.

The fatbric which is 4provided with the integral thin edge may be asingle ply. fabric,

ofrthe' nature of canvas, but with an appropriate Ibody and fineness ofWeave so that it will impart the desired degree of stiffness to thecollar. In the preferred embodiments which-the upper side of the neckband is secured; or both the neck band so that it will 4 of theinvention, however, the yfabric is a multiply fabric, such as a two orthree or four ply fabric, and the integral edge is of the thickness ofone or more pl'ies of the Where the neck band portion of the collar isof the multiply fabric having the integral thin edge to whic thefoldingor'tu-rn down portion of the collar is secured, the folding orVturn down portion may likewise be made of multiply fabric, or it may bemade of other fabrics such as are now commonly used in-soft collarconstruction.- The folding or turn down portion of the collar may thusbe made to match the shirt with which it is to be worn; or fabrics ofdifferent materials or colors or designs may be used for the outerfolding portion of the collar and combined with a standard form of neckband.

Where the folding or turn down portion of the collar is of multiplyfabric having a fabric, but it will be understood that the Uil thinextending edge to which :the neck band is secured, the neck band maylikewise be made of multi-ply fabric, or it may be made of otherappropriate fabrics, such as are now commonly used in soft collarconstruction.

Where both the neck band and folding portions off the collar are made ofmultiply fabric with the thin integral edge projecte ing therefrom,these thin edges may be of appropriate width and thickness and soarranged that they will require merely stitching together without addedbinding or finish. That is :to say, .the thin edgemay be a selvage edge,or may be folded in to forni a hem, and the two edges may be stitchedtogether along a line which will be adjacent to the fold line of thecollar when finished; and the collar will then lbe finished except forthe button-holes and the binding along the outer edges of the multiplyfabric. if the multiply fabric is woven in strips of appropriate widthand contour, these edges may not require any .added binding except atrthe end tabs.

llfhere the neck band of the collar is of the special weave fabric(either single ply or multiply) of sufficient body and appropriateweave, it will impart a. sufficient vdegree of stidness to the collar sothat the necessity of additional stiflening means will be obviated orminimized, and so that'the outer folding portion of the collar, willpresent a smooth and pleasing appearance.

W hen the outer folding portion of the collar is of this special weavefabric having the integral edge projecting therefrom, and Where thisfabric is of appropriate stiffness, without objectionable rigidity, itwill tend to maintain its smooth and pleasing appearance even withoutadditional stidening vin the neck band of the collar; but suchadditional stiffening may be provided, where this may be desirable, andthe collar as a whole thereby stifl'ened.

llhere both the folding and neck band portions of the collar are of thespecial weave fabric, secured together in the manner above referred to,the collar will have an increased degree of stidness due to the combinedstiffening `effects of the two fabrics.

lFhere the multiply fabric, and its integral projecting edge ofdecreased thickness are woven of an appropriate curvilinear contour, andthe neck band and folding portions of the collar secured together bymeans lof the integral edge on one or both the neck band and turn downportions of the'collar,

the edge of the multiply fabric will conform with the fold line of thecollar so that the collar will tend to fold along this line, and so thatthe curvilinear edge of the fabric will 'contribute to the permanentcurvilinear set of the collar when folded.

'Where both the neck band and folding portions ,of the collar are of themultiply fabric, and both portions are woven with a curvilinear edge,both portions of the collar will contribute to the desired contour ofthe collar when folded. lnorder that sufficient space may be leftbetween the neck band and folding portions of the collar for the freeplay of the necktie, it is advantageous to weave the fabric from whichthe outer or folding portion is cut somewhat longer than the fabric fromwhich the neck band is cut. The invention will be further described inconnection with the embodiments thereof illustrated in the accompanyingdrawings, in which- Figure l shows one form of completed collarembodying the invention. T Fig. 2 is a sectional view of the collar ofiig. l.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged section of the collar of 1g. 2 showing the collarunfolded.

lof Fig. l.

Fig. 5 shows another construction of collar embodying the invention.

Fig. 6 is a sectional View of the collar of Fig. 5.

Fig. 'l' is an enlarged sectional view of the fold portion ,of thecollar of Fig. 6, showing the collar unfolded.

Fig. 8 is a sectional View illustrating a further modified construction.

Fig. 9 is a section through of the collar of Fig. 8, with the collarunfolded..

Fig. 10 is a view similar to that of Fig. 9

l shows one of the ends of the collar the fold portion l showing a stillfurther modified construction.

Fig. li is another view similar to that of Figs. and 10 showing a stillfurther modiiied construction.

Fig.A l2 shows part of a strip of curvi linear fabric having a thinintegral edge at u both its edges and adapted for the cutting therefromof both the neck band and turn down portion of collars embodying theinventio in certain of the figures of the drawings certain of the partshave been somewhat eX- aggerated for purposes of illustration. rlhespecial weave fabric has also been illustrated as a multiply fabric. itwill be understood however that the invention comprehends in its broaderaspects the utilization of either multiply fabrics or appropriate singleply fabrics of proper weave provided with the thin integral edge;although the multiply fabrics are particularly advantageous for purposesof the present invention.

The collar illustrated in Figs. l to is made up of the neck band portionl and the outer folding or turn down portion 2. The neck band portion isof two ply fabric and is provided with an integral edge 3 projectingtherefnom, of single ply, as more clearly illustrated in ig. 3.

This edge 1s more- 1 over a selvage edge so that it requires no furtherbinding or finish. The lower edge of the neck. band, if unfinished, maybe bound in any' appropriate manner, as by the bind.- ing tape 7 whichincloses the edge of the multiply fabric and is stitched thereto by arow of stitches 8. This binding is shown in Fig. 4 asextending alsoaround the end tab 10. A

The folding portion' 2 of the collar is shown as made up of twoseparatepieces of fabric 4 and 5 which are turned in at their upper edges andstitched to the edge 3 by one or more rows of stitches 6, one of whichis-shown. At the lower edge of the folding portion of the collar the-twopieces of fabric are turned in and stitched at 9. The usual button-holein the end tabs ofthe collar is indicated at 11.

i With the construction and arrangement of Figs. 1 to 4, the turnededges of the fabrics 4 and' 5 overlap the thin edge 3 its entire widthso that there is no portion of increased iiexibility between the ends ofthese two fab rics and the edge of the multiply fabric. The collar willaccordingly foldso that the row orrows of stitches 6 will be on theinside of the collarout of sight, as will be apparent 'from Figs. 1 and2.

When the neck band of the collar shown in' Figs. 1 to 4 is of anappropriate multiply fabric, this neck band will impart to the collar asufficient degree of stiffness so that the collar will tend to maintainits upright position without wrinklng and without ad- Y ditionalstiffening means and so that the folding portion will be left free toassume a smooth natural position without added stiffening.

may l band. or the foldingportion of the collar gSuch additionalstiffening means where special ocoaslon may require them,

or detachable stiffeners may be used, but the construction illustrated,where the fabric is of appropriate weave and stiffness, obviates orminimizes the necessity for such addi.

. made of three ply fabric so that the entire tional stieners. Y

The multiply fabric shown in Figs. 1 to 4 has a curvilinear edge and isof such contour that the edge of the fabric and the thin `extension 3thereof will conform with the -range of fabrics can be utilized inkselecting the vcolor or design of the folding portion,

so thatvthis may matchthe shirt, or may be of other desirable color ordesign.l en

thecollar isintended to be reversible, the

two fabrics forming the folding portion of the collar may be of the sameor different colorI or design.

.It will be understood that the shape and` of course be added to eitherthe neck .size of thecollar of Fig. 1, or of the other modifications ofthe invention, may be varied in accordance with the demands of the tradeand other considerations.

The collar of Figs. l5 to 7 has its outer or turn ldown portion 13 ofthree ply fabric provided with the thin edge 19 of single ply to whichthe fabrics of the neck band 12are lupper edge at 20 and 21 to the edge19 of the multiply fabric. The multiply fabric is'shown as having itslower edge 15 turned and a tape 16 applied thereto and stitched at 17and 18, one row of stitches passing through the turned edge as well asthrough the tape andone row passing through only the tape and themultiply fabricbeyond the turned edge.

' The edge 19 of Fig. 7 is shown as a selvage edge so that it requiresno other bindin or finish. It is also shown of a width su cient toextendover the fold line of the collar and to be secured to the upper edge ofthe neck band as shown. The neck band does not overlap this edge 19 itsfull width sovthat there is left a space between the upper edge of theneck band and the upper edge of the multiply fabric where the singlethickness of fabric forms a natural fold line of increased iexibility.When the multiply fabric is of curvilinear weave, corresponding to thecurvilinear set of thecollar,

'lov

be arranged on the inside of the collarwhee the stitchin will not show.-q

In the colar of Fi 8 and l9, both` the neck band 22 and theoldingportion 23 are edgeI of the collar may be, if desired,jpro

vided with the same kind of binding, for

example, 'a binding tape 24. The upperv natural fold line of thecollar.l TheJ arrangement is such that the collar will tend to fold atthe proper place provided therefor,

on the, inside ofthe collar and hidden from view when the collar isworn.

1nthe construction of Fig. 10 the three so that the double row ofstitches 27 lwhich l 'secures the two thin edges together will be plyfabric 28 which forms the outer folding portion of the collar has asingleply edge 30 Which is not a salvage edge, but which is of a Widthgreater than is required for unitin the neck band 29 thereto. Ilhe neckban 29 is shown as made up of two pieces of fabric similar to those ofFigs. 1 to fi. The thin edge 30 is folded over and the edges of thefabrics 29 are laid thereon and a tape 31 then laid over t-he edges ofthese fabrics and stitched through the fabrics and the single ply edge30 to form a binding and finish therefor. lVith this arrangement alsothe thin edge 30 may be arranged `to form the natural. fold line of thecollar.

rllhe construction of Fig. 11 likewise shows the multiply fabric 32having a single ply edge 34 projecting therefrom. rlhe tvvo layers offabric 33 which form the neck band of the collar have their edges turnedin and are arranged one on-each side of thethin single ply edge 3d andstitched thereto.` lf

i the edge 34 is not finished it Will nevertheless be hidden from Viewin the construction of .this figure; and it will still serve as a foldline of increased iiexibility.

rllhe fabric of Fig. 12 is a curvilinear fabric Woven with one edgelonger than the other and With progressively greater length from theinner to the outer edge. rlhe inner edge 38 Will accordingly be concaveor of lesser length than the outer edge 37. Both the edges37 and 38 ofthe fabric 36 may be thin edges such as are described above for securingthe collar. together. if both edges are thus made thin, the neck bandportion of the collar may be cut from the longer edge of the fabric andthe outer folding portion from the shorter edge 38. lf the neck band andfoldingportions thus cut are then se'- cured together, in the mannerabove de scribed, the neck band Will be shorter than its thin edge 37and the folding portion will be longer than its thin edge 38, so thatthe folding portion will as a Whole be longer than the neck band. Withthis construction also the collar will have a tendency to fold along theedge of the multiply fabric which Will thus contribute to the permanentcurvilinear set of the collar as a Whole.

lt will be understood that the multiply fabric, as Well as theindividual layers of single ply fabrics such as those of l? ig. 1, maybe made of dierent kinds of material, and that the different plies ofthe same fabric may be made of different materials. i finer or moreexpensive material such as silk may thus form the outer ply of thefabric and a less expensive material the other plies. lt Will beunderstood also that the multiply fabric may be of dierent colors ordesigns to match the shirtsvvith which it is to be worn, or so that,Where the collar is reversible, it may present the same or a differentappearance on the different sides.

rennes? having an integral thin edge to which theother portion issecured.

2. A soft folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion anda fold- 'ing or turn down portion, one of said portions being ofmultiply fabric and having an integral thin edge projecting therefrom toWhich the other portion of the collar is secured.

3. Soft folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and afolding or turn down portion, one of said portions being of appropriatethickness and Weave to give stiffness to the collar and having a thinedge `Woven integral therewith, and of curvilinear Acontourcorresponding to the fold line of the collar, to which the edge of'theother portion of the collar is secured 4. A soft folding or turndowncollar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn downportion, one of said portions being of multiply interwoven fabric andhaving an integral thin edge projecting therefrom, of curvilinearcontour corresponding to the fold line of the collar, to which the edgeof the other portion of the collar is secured.

5. A soft folding or turndoWn collar made up of a neck band portion anda folding or turn down portion, the neck band portion being ofappropriate thickness and Weave to impart stid'ness to the collar andhaving an integral thin edge projecting therefrom to which the edge of.the turn dovvn portion of the -collar is secured, the

said edge being on the inner side of the collar Where it is hidden fromView.

6. A soft folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion anda folding or turn down portion, the outer folding portion being ,ofappropriate thickness and Weave to impart stiness to the collar andhaving an integral thin edge extending beilo youd the fold line ofthecollar and secured to the upper edge of the neck band.

7. A soft. folding orv turn down collar .in portion of the collar beingof multiply fa ric and having an edge of curvilinear contour conformingto the fold line lof the collar and an integral thin edge projectingtherefrornfand extending beyond th'e fold line and secured to the upperedge of the neck band, and vthe edge of the neck band portionoverlapping the thin edge a portion only of its width and being spacedaway from the multiply fabric so that the thin l edge forms a fold lineof increased flexil bility.

9. A soft folding made up lof a neck band portion and a folding or turndown portion, both of saidv portions being of appropriate thickness andor turn down' collar Weave I to impart -stiffness to the collar andhaving integral thin edges extending therefrom and secured together nearthe fold line of the col-lar. v

l0. A soft folding or turn downy collar made up of a neck band portionand a folding or turn down portion, both of said portions being ofvmultiply fabric and having curvilinear edges -corresponding to the foldline of the collar, and both of said fabrics having integral thin edgesprojecting therefrom and secured together near the fold line of thecollar. Y A

In testimony whereof I affix my JOHN M. VAN HEUSEN.

signature.

